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Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Rioja Uncorked: Bodegas Sierra Cantabria "Cuvee" Especial Rioja

If you resolve to give up smoking, drinking and loving, you don't actually live longer; it just seems longer. ~ Sir Clement Raphael Freud

Thinking a moment about his statement, I find an amazing amount of common sense for the everyday vino-sapien, everything should be taken in moderation, whether it's love, cigars or wine drinking, you need to know your limits and learn to just say, "no thank-you".  Which to my mind, is a perfectly acceptable reply to even the most gracious of hosts.

Now that said; when most vino-sapiens think about where a wine comes from, they are thinking about the French term terroir [tare-wahr]. It's a term that describes the climate which the grapes grow and thrive in, plus the various soil and sub-soil types which are often ultimately [and I say hopefully] reflected in wine swirling about in your glass.

Meandering as I did, through the captivating La Rioja wine region last week, in many cases I had the opportunity to see various types of soils and found that no two regions were anything alike. Each one had its very own unique character and style. The Tempranillo grape, which is the signature grape of the region, fits very nicely into each of these areas. Making for some of the most wonderful wine drinking experiences you'll ever come to know. Wines, which for many are a whole different-animal, especially for the folks who may have grown-up around the California wine industry.

What I found in many of wines I tasted Rioja was just what I expected I would; a signature sense of place that jumped from the glass in the nose and wowed my palate over and over. The folks I met, had a deep abiding passion for the wine business, it was evident in each and every wine I tasted last week. While some winemakers and producers had embraced what many call the "international" style which at times stymied the flavors of Rioja's unique terroir, still others clung vigorously to the past, maintaining the more "traditional" styles. In some cases, I believe their wines have crossed the bridge between the two and masterfully so and making that point for me with an exclamation point is the wine in today's wine review spot-light, the 2008 Sierra Cantabria "Cuvee" Especial.

Unfortunately I could not find this current release here in the states, it was a wine I encountered while tapas bar hopping last week. But if you'd like to get your hands on the 2007, I used wine-searcher to locate one store [selling for $35 usd and it was $26 at the tapas bar] that has limited quantities on hand, so act quickly.

In the glass you’ll find dark purple, violet core, with a brilliant clear rim. The aromas jumping from the glass suggested, an incredibly rich nose, offering a boat-load blackberries, leather, herbs and earth aromas. After the first slurp, sweet American oak combines with flavors of dark-chocolate, espresso, blackberries and ripe plum, leading to a soft, plush, yet taut and complex mouthfeel. This wine finishes with a long, smooth, yet very chalky [like clapping two erasers together, inhaling some of the dust]. For me this wine is absolutely delicious, pretty, yet wildly seductive, and drinking surprisingly well now, but feel free to sock it away for the future, this wine has great structure to last another five years or more.

Speaking of terrior, this wine was produced from clay and limestone vineyards in the Rioja Alavesa, one of the three sub-zones in La Rioja. This 100% tempranillo, is made from organically grown, hand harvested grapes. It then sees 12 months aging in 60% American and 40% French oak barrels, providing a very good example both of the Bodegas Sierra Cantabria's house style and their overall excellent quality.

Miguel Eguren who I met last week, looks after the vineyards for Sierra Cantabria, while the winemaking is done by his brother Marcos and his son Eduardo, both of whom are producing stunning wines whether it be in the traditional or in the modern international style. Their Bodega has been producing excellent wines under the Sierra Cantabria label for over 50 years.

How can I say that, because I had the unique opportunity to sit down with a broad range of their wines including a bottle from 1965, which I found very captivating, rich and still very rewarding. Folks, honestly you need to get to know this producer, because in this writers opinion this how you do it, viva Rioja! Remember folks when it comes to wine, it don't mean a thing, if it doesn't have that swing, until next time folks, sip long and prosper cheers!
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