Cult Watch!

Cult Watch!

I not sure how many of you are into cult wines? But there is a new list out and I am not sure if you have seen it, but I thought it may be fun to discuss here. For my part I guess I've slipped a couple of so called "cult wines" into my cellar. I purchase Sea Smoke and Kosta Browne each year, but I don't really consider them a cult wine. But if you want to buy them at a reasonable price you have to be on a waiting list, and then wait and wait and then finally you are given an allocation. This has become true for many wines who through the scoreing system of certain publications have risen to cult status. So I wanted to post the Top 10 to be on the lookout for and get your reactions. I would interested to know if any of you purchase these wines, have them in your cellars waiting for the right day or you don't why those who made the lists are there in the first place. So check it out and get back to me. Thanks!



These 10 wineries all have dedicated followings and the right combination of factors to catapult to cult status. Keep an eye out for them in the coming year.

Buccella buccellawines.com; (707) 944-1000
After befriending noted winemaker Mark Herold and working a harvest at Behrens & Hitchcock on Spring Mountain, landscape company owner Bill Deem and his wife, Alicia, came west from the Philadelphia area and courted Herold to help build their label. The Cabernet comes from a mix of sites, while the tiny run of Merlot (about 300 cases) hails from Larry Hyde's Carneros vineyard. The latest 2005 release is priced at $100 for mailing-list members, up $20 in three years. Scores have been promising, with much momentum from word of mouth, especially from buyers familiar with Herold's work. Though Herold has apparently stepped back from his role there, Deem seems determined to modestly grow his label.

DR Stephens drstephenswines.com; (707) 963-2908
San Francisco real estate investor Don Stephens and his wife, Trish, turned a property outside St. Helena into a 9-acre vineyard site, managed by noted vineyardist Jim Barbour. Despite a mailing-list-only approach, scores haven't quite hit the level that ignites full cult momentum. But with Celia Welch Masyczek making the wines - and especially with her success at Scarecrow - the Stephens' property is due to get more attention. It's a similar story with Rocca Family Vineyards, another Masyczek project.

Futo futowines.com; (707) 944-9333
This Oakville property - the former Oakford vineyard, near Harlan - was bought by Wichita, Kan., brothers Tom and Kyle Futo. Twelve acres of vines are overseen by Mark Aubert, plus vineyard guru David Abreu. You know the drill: a single-estate Cabernet, made in extremely limited amounts - well under 1,000 cases - priced ambitiously and sold by mailing list (along with a second wine, OV). Auction prices are already climbing, and within another year its cult status will likely be cemented.

Ghost Block bondedwinery9.com; (707) 945-1213
From the organic Rock Cairn vineyard in Oakville comes this wine made at the Napa Wine Co. custom crush facility by winemaker Rob Lawson. The names come from the plot's location next to the Pioneer Cemetery, burial site of some of the valley's early settlers. After the 2004 vintage sold out in a flash, expectations are high for the 2005 release, which costs just $55. Deal-hunters are watching to see if a Parker score seals its potential in Cultland.
Jonata jonata.com; (805) 564-8581
Screaming Eagle's Central Coast sister. The wineries share the same owners, Charles Banks and Stan Kroenke, and the same marketing manager, Ursula Hermacinski. Matt Dees (formerly of Staglin Family Vineyard) is winemaker, with a helping hand from Screaming Eagle's Andy Erickson and consultant Michel Rolland. With access to the Eagle's mailing list, Jonata has hoped to tap into its bulletproof popularity. Several factors left would-be buyers hesitant: ambitious pricing (up to $125 per bottle); a decision to make blended wines (Syrah and Sangiovese play roles along with Cabernet); and the prestige gap between Napa and Santa Ynez valleys. The wise money says Jonata will find its niche; its rise just may take time.

Keefer Ranch keeferranch.com; (707) 829-5950
The owners of this Green Valley site have long provided fruit for stellar Pinot Noirs from Failla, Kosta Browne and others. A debut 2006 vintage of their own wine is now out, made by Ed Kurtzman, winemaker for Sandler, August West and Freeman. It's a primo matchup of Pinot terroir and talent.

Leviathan No contact info
If winemaker Andy Erickson is normally low key, he's almost mum about this blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. But for his devotees, it's a chance to access the Screaming Eagle winemaker's talents for under $50 - far less than most of his projects, which also include Hartwell Vineyards and Arietta. Fans also seek out wines from Favia (faviawine.com), which features the joint talents of Erickson and his wife, Annie Favia, one of Napa Valley's top viticulturists.




Levy & McClellan levymcclellan.com; (707) 963-1282 (fax)
This Diamond Mountain effort from superstar wine couple Bob Levy (Harlan Estate) and Martha McClellan (Sloan, Blankiet) should sell itself. But aggressive pricing ($350 for the inaugural 2004 vintage, according to the Wine Advocate; Wally's in Los Angeles currently lists it at $750) leaves open the question of whether fans will pay for the privilege of a newly minted label.


Salinia Wine Co. salinia.com
After earning his stripes in Burgundy and as the winemaker at Copain's custom crush facility, Kevin Kelley and his wife, Jennifer, created their own tiny Santa Rosa label, producing less than 300 cases of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah, harnessing cool-site vineyards near the town of Occidental. They reward lovers of a leaner, less muscular style of Pinot - if you can find them. The tiny production makes them virtually impossible to locate.

Tor Kenward Family Wines torwines.com; (707) 963-3100
After nearly 30 years at Beringer, Tor Kenward's retirement project was this small St. Helena winery, where he and winemaker Jeff Ames produce lots of Cabernet, Chardonnay and a bit of Syrah. The wines have been well received since the early 2000s, but the 2005 addition of a Cab from Andy Beckstoffer's To Kalon Vineyard in Oakville was a big catalyst. The '05 scored 96 points from Robert Parker, and the '06 has a preliminary 96-100 rating, raising the specter of a new perfect-scoring label.


For the full story by Jon Bonné, Chronicle Wine Editor in the SF Chronicle, here's the link. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/05/29/WI4G10U4F3.DTL

Comments

Anonymous said…
Check out Ghost Horse http://www.ghosthorseworld.com/ I have tried the Fantome and Cabernet. I can attest they are spectacular. Also try Rust Ridge www.RustRidge.com And by the way if you are looking to buy a vineyard or winery property visit my website www.MikeBolen.com
Will Eyer said…
Mike, thanks for stopping by! I will be on the lookout for your recommendations. Cheers!

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